Day 9: Nájare
We walked 18.3 miles from Logroño to Nájare
We woke up and headed out early to make our big miles before the sun got too strong. Several miles in, I realized I left our guidebook in our Airbnb. Even if we wanted to go back to get it, we couldn't get into the apartment because we had already returned the keys. The guidebook has been a huge comfort for us and was our major source of information on where to stay, what to do, which routes to take etc. It sucks losing stuff and I felt horrible all morning.
The last four miles of our day were tough (so the story goes every day). It started to get hot, we didn't eat much, we never stopped to rest, and we were running low on water. My feet were definitely starting to bother me just from being walked on for so many miles. I was later validated in my pain when I eventually took off my shoes to reveal huge bruises along the heel of both feet. I also have this strange spotty rash on the tops of my feet that flares up when I hike...but that's another story. I have pictures, but I'll spare you all the horror.
We didn't get lost despite not having a guidebook!
We walked through vineyards all day. The vines are just dropping with grapes- it was amazing. It was also super tempting- my mom and I had to try one but spit it out immediately. They were extremely sour and acidic- definitely not close to being ripe. Ever since walking into Logroño, we have been in the region of Spain best known for its superior wine. After walking from vineyard to vineyard, it only made sense to enjoy some local wine when we finally got to town.
Mom and I got a double room at Nido de Cigueña hostel and it was very basic. The walls were thin, so mom still had to use her earplugs, but it was directly on the Camino wth easy access to downtown.
Nájare is a strangely lively mountain village. People were going hard all night. There was a bachelorette party, a bachelor party, and I think I heard a parade. There were a lot of great restaurants by the river and amazing wine. Mom and I split pasta dishes for a late lunch when we arrived and split a salad much later for dinner.
A Trace of Grace
Notes from a trekking mama
Every day I remember to be grateful for strength and safety, for accommodations and food, for the friends we have met, and the family and friends praying for us at home. There is a lot of time to think, pray and reflect along the way- in between the moments I am trying to breathe, convincing myself to keep going, not in need a water closet, or laughing with my incredibly good humored daughter.